วงจรแปลงไฟจาก 6 V ไป 12 V

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R1,R4 - 2.2K 1/4W Resistor

R2,R3 - 4.7K 1/4W Resistor

R5 - 1K 1/4W Resistor

R6 - 1.5K 1/4W Resistor

R7 - 33K 1/4W Resistor

R8 - 10K 1/4W Resistor

C1,C2 - 0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor

C3 - 470uF 25V Electrolytic Capcitor

D1 - 1N914 Diode

D2 - 1N4004 Diode

D3 - 12V 400mW Zener Diode

Q1,Q2,Q4 - BC547 NPN Transistor

Q3 - BD679 NPN Transistor

L1 - See Notes

Notes

1. L1 is a custom inductor wound with about 80 turns of 0.5mm magnet wire around a toroidal core with a 40mm outside diameter.

2. Different values of D3 can be used to get different output voltages from about 0.6V to around 30V. Note that at higher voltages the circuit might not perform as well and may not produce as much current. You may also need to use a larger C3 for higher voltages and/or higher currents.

3. You can use a larger value for C3 to provide better filtering.

4. The circuit will require about 2A from the 6V supply to provide the full 800mA at 12V.

แหล่งจ่ายไฟกระแสสูง

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R1 - 680 Ohm 1/4 Watt Resistor

C1 - 20,000 - 50,000uF 20-40 Volt Capacitor

C2,C3 - 100uF 50 Volt Capacitor

C4 - 0.1uF 50 Volt Capacitor

C5 - 0.01uF 50 Volt Capacitor

D1 - Zener Diode (See Notes)

Q1 - 2N3055 Or Other (See Notes)

T1 - Transformer (See Notes)

BR1 - Bridge Rectifier (See Notes)

S1 - SPST 250 VAC 10 A Switch

Notes

1. D1 should be rated at about one volt higher than then desired output of the supply. A half watt diode will do.

2. Q1 can be a transistor similar to the 2N3055. I chose the 2N3055 for it's availability and power handling (150 watts).

3. T1 should be about 5 volts higher than the desired output of the supply, and rated for about one amp more of current. The voltage overhead is required by the regulator section. The extra current is to keep the transformer from over heating.

4. The choice of BR1 will depend on the voltage and current of your transformer. The rectifier should be rated for 50 volts more than the transformer, and 5 amps more than the transformer.

5. The value of R1 will be smaller when supplying high currents. Expiriment until you get what you need.

6. Heatsink and fans are absolutely necessary!

จ่ายไฟให้กับเครื่องเล่น CD จากแบตเตอรี่รถยนต์

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C1 - 1000uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

C2 - 10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

C3 - 1uF 15V Elextrolytic Capacitor

C4 - 0.1uF 15V Electrolytic Capacitor

U1 - 7809 Or Other Regulator (See "Notes")

Note

ในที่นี้ใช้เครื่องเล่นซีดีที่กินไฟ 9 v แต่ถ้าเครื่องเล่นซีดีกินไฟ 5 v ให้เปลี่ยน U1 เป็นเบอร์ 7805

วงจร Inverter เบื้องต้น

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C1,C2 -68 uf, 25 V Tantalum Capacitor

R1,R2 -10 Ohm, 5 Watt Resistor

R3,R4 -180 Ohm, 1 Watt Resistor

D1,D2 -HEP 154 Silicon Diode

Q1,Q2 -2N3055 NPN Transistor (see "Notes")

T1 -24V, Center Tapped Transformer (see "Notes")

Notes:

1. Q1 and Q2, as well as T1, determine how much wattage the inverter can supply. With Q1,Q2=2N3055 and T1= 15 A, the inverter can supply about 300 watts. Larger transformers and more powerful transistors can be substituted for T1, Q1 and Q2 for more power.

2. The easiest and least expensive way to get a large T1 is to re-wind an old microwave transformer. These transformers are rated at about 1KW and are perfect. Go to a local TV repair shop and dig through the dumpster until you get the largest microwave you can find. The bigger the microwave the bigger transformer. Remove the transformer, being careful not to touch the large high voltage capacitor that might still be charged. If you want, you can test the transformer, but they are usually still good. Now, remove the old 2000 V secondary, being careful not to damage the primary. Leave the primary in tact. Now, wind on 12 turns of wire, twist a loop (center tap), and wind on 12 more turns. The guage of the wire will depend on how much current you plan to have the transformer supply. Enamel covered magnet wire works great for this. Now secure the windings with tape. Thats all there is to it. Remember to use high current transistors for Q1 and Q2. The 2N3055's in the parts list can only handle 15 amps each.

3. Remember, when operating at high wattages, this circuit draws huge amounts of current. Don't let your battery go dead :-).

4. Since this project produces 120 VAC, you must include a fuse and build the project in a case.

5. You must use tantalum capacitors for C1 and C2. Regular electrolytics will overheat and explode. And yes, 68uF is the correct value. There are no substitutions.

6. This circuit can be tricky to get going. Differences in transformers, transistors, parts substitutions or anything else not on this page may cause it to not function.

7. Check out this forum topic to answer many of the most commonly asked questions about this circuit: 12 - 120V Inverter Again. It covers the most common problems encountered and has some helpful suggestions.

Power Supply

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C1 - 14000uF or 10000uf 40 VDC Electrolytic Capacitor
C2 - 100uF 50Vdc Electrolytic Capacitor
C3 - 0.1uF Disc Capacitor
C4 - 0.01uF Disc Capacitor
R1 - 5K Pot
R2 - 240 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
U1 - LM338K 1.2 to 30 Volt 5 Amp Regulator
BR1- 10 Amp 50 PIV Bridge Rectifier
T1 - 24 V 5 Amp Transformer
S1 - Switch

Electronic Circuits

Here are some neat circuits you might want to try. The schematics and printed circuit board patterns are GIF's, and may show up different on some browsers. You might want to save the images (especially the PC board patterns) to your hard drive, load them into a photo editor such as PhotoStyler, and adjust the size. I have of course provided all the schematics, and I have provided PC board patterns whenever possible. This page is always under construction and there will be new additions often. Some of these circuits were designed by me, some were not. Whenever possible I have tried to credit the author of a circuit but since many of these circuits are from my personal collection that I have gathered over a period of many years, this information is not always available.